![]() ![]() Furthermore, the components in Massive work aggressively to promote, as well as transport vital fluids and cell building materials to the flower sites. ![]() This formula also increases and promotes flower size, aromatics, essential oils, chlorophyll content, photosynthesis, CO2 utilization, proper NPK ratios, cell expansion and content, cell wall thickness, floral components, and resistance to stressors. These include phosphorus and potassium, which guarantee hefty buds in time for harvest. Massive Bloom is formulated with L-form amino acids, a specially formulated vitamin profile, a unique blend of carbohydrates, a chelated mineral profile, and a combination of essential nutrients. Massive Bloom Formulation is our premier flowering additive formulated with all of the necessary macro and micro elements required to achieve an increase in flower size, as well as providing several additional beneficial properties. A sanity check.Description Green Planet Massive Bloom 5L The spreadsheet lets me know how that affects the NPK ratio. For example, I sometimes add AK Fish emulsion in veg just to improve the soil microbial environment. It helps "read the plant" when you know what you're giving it, and how you changed what you're giving. I have worked out some of the boutique "lineups" and they're all in the same range (mentioned above). You can plug your products into that spreadsheet and see what the resulting NPK ratio is for any feeding. ![]() I created a spreadsheet to make it easier to figure that out (and, recreate it using other, simpler products). The problem is when using boutique multi-bottle "lineups" you don't know what the NPK is resulting from the mix. I shoot for an NPK *ratio* of 1.5-1-1.5 (maybe 2-1-1.5) in veg and 1-1.5-1.5 in flower (maybe 1-2-1.5 at the end, perhaps 1-3-1.5 once or twice at the end). I think too much is made of veg vs bloom nutes (to sell more boutique "lineups"). What lighting do you use? How many watts covering how much sq ft?īe careful reducing N too much, especially too soon. I do it occasionally just to check that things are working ok.Ĭlick to expand.First plant I harvested was an autoflower under T5HO. Once you find a sane strength you don't have to do it. I suspect the difference in my case was that GM-SG contains organic components.Īnyway, that's when I found that watching runoff PPMs is a good way to help dial in nutrient strengths. I don't know why some nutrients burn and others simply accumulate and acidify. But, by flower I had *massive* problems due to salt built up. ![]() I thought it was all about PPMs, so that should be it. I switched to the (much) less expensive Grow More Sea Grow and fed the same amount of PPMs (which turned out to be what the product label recommended). I fed 800-1200ppm (which is produced by about 2/3 of the label's recommended dose). I started growing with GH Flora (3-part). It's useful info to have if/when you have a plant problem. It just eliminates the guess work, shooting in the dark, etc. If they rise to 2000ppm I know I'm either overfeeding and/or not producing enough runoff. Excessive nutes can accumulate and acidify the soil, causing lockout which will look like *under* feeding. How do you know when you found "too much?" Watch for burnt leaf tips. Typically you start at half the label's strength and work up from there. Click to expand.If you can't find someone using the same nutrients you do, you have to experiment and find the right strength. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |